TRACY WONG'S THINGS TO DO IN SEATTLE BEFORE YOU'RE DEAD

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Folks from other parts of the country may be shocked to hear that I don't own any of the following: a real mountain bike; Tevas; a watch with a really thick Velcro watchband; a sea kayak; or even an SUV. So the following guide is slightly more urban than you might expect from a resident of the tree-hugging Pacific Northwest.

Of Gastronomical Note

Best Restaurant: The King Fish in Capital Hill. It's not just soul food; it's food for the soul. 206-320-8757.

Best Prunes: Mario & Luigi's Produce at the Pike Place Market. You won't be disappointed.

Best Martini: If you must ask, the bar at the Mayflower Hotel. 623-8700.

For the Uninspired

The Seattle Underground Tour: Learn to identify the liquor content of urine merely by smell. 682-4646.

The Space Needle: Drink one too many cocktails in the rotating bar and complain that "The room is spinning!" Seattle Center, 443-2100.

The Sub-Pop Mega-Mart: Demand to know who really killed Kurt. 652-4356.

For the Inspired

Ferry to Bainbridge Island: Sneak a beer onto the upper deck and watch for porpoises, an occasional Orca pod and/or nuclear submarine on its way to the Bremerton Naval Shipyards for repair. Colman Dock, 515-3400.

Shorty's: Play some vintage pinball, order a Coney dog and a Lucky Lager, feel nothing like a tourist. 441-5449.

Torrefazione: Starbucks it ain't. Thank God! 624-5847.

In memoriam: Pay your respects at Bruce and Brandon Lee's side-by-side graves in Lakeview Cemetery on Capital Hill. To find Jimi Hendrix's gravesite at Greenwood Memorial Park Cemetery in Renton, look for guitar picks and worn grass.

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