20. William Lauder

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AD BUDGET: $1.06 billion

AGENCIES INCLUDE: WPP's MindShare, N.Y.

POWER PLAY: In recent months, scion William Lauder, 45, has named the superstar head of Estee Lauder Cos.'s MAC division, John Demsey, as global brand president overseeing the contemporization of the Estee Lauder brand. Mr. Lauder also has tapped L'Oreal's marketing head of Ralph Lauren Fragrances, Andrea Robinson, to head marketing for the Estee Lauder brand, and formed an alliance with former Gucci designer Tom Ford. The new midscale BeautyBank division, selling exclusively at Kohl's, helps the company compete with growing "masstige" brands.

DOWNSIDE: Gaining acceptance among young consumers is quite a hurdle as nearly half of company sales still come from older department-store shoppers. Plans to shift advertising from Estee Lauder's less profitable fragrance brands to higher-margin skincare and makeup brands are considered risky by some analysts.

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