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Trying to put a pretty face on 1995, Maybelline wants to have it both ways.

To that end, the No. 2 cosmetics giant will re-emphasize youth marketing while attempting to revitalize the baby-boomer-targeted Revitalizing line.

That's a switch from 1994 when Maybelline pushed Revitalizing at the expense of the classic Maybelline cosmetics that skew to 18- to 35-year-olds.

On tap for classic Maybelline in 1995: its first major new product push in a year; reformulated and repackaged lipsticks; bolder ads under the Maybelline "Maybe she's born with it" umbrella; and the upscale Face Intelligence System, an in-store unit with translucent shade strips so consumers can more easily match foundation shades to their complexions.

The renewed support of classic Maybelline follows Revitalizing's failure to generate a 5% incremental share in the $2.6 billion mass market cosmetics category. Instead, Maybelline has remained flat this year at 18.2%. And Revitalizing's estimated 2.7% share has cannibalized classic Maybelline, now at about 15.5%, according to analyst Holly Becker at Smith Barney, New York.

Revitalizing's performance also set off speculation that cosmetics aimed only at those over 35 may not be viable.

But Revlon, which began 1994 with a 15.4% share, hopes to close it with a 17% share, thanks in part to powerful brand introductions like ColorStay lipstick and Age Defying Makeup. The latter line consists of foundations and powders aimed at the over 35 crowd, personified by actress Melanie Griffith in ads from Tarlow Advertising.

Revlon was modest in its goals for Age Defying, focusing on a specific group of products while Maybelline extended Revitalizing to all types of cosmetics and skincare.

"Revitalizing was overly ambitious," said industry consultant Allan Mottus. "Over the last year, there was a resurgence in department store shopping as consumers were lured by promotions, and that hurt Revitalizing as did the fact that everyone from Max Factor to L'Oreal upgraded their lines so that everyone in the mass market was chasing" upscale consumers.

Maybelline Exec VP Cathy Wills maintains that "after one year we haven't done too bad ... And we did find out with Revitalizing that we can pull consumers from department stores, where one-third of our consumers came from. Now we're trying to do the same with the classic line."

Revitalizing also will be fortified in 1995 with alpha hydroxy acid-based makeup and night cream, and possibly a campaign independent from Maybelline's "Maybe" umbrella theme. Three copy lines are being tested against "Maybe" through agency Gotham Group, New York.

Wall Street estimates Maybelline worldwide ad spending will rise to $58.4 million in 1995, up 12.7%, while promotion will increase to $64 million, up 9.6%.

Ms. Wills pegs 1995 U.S. media spending at $45 million to $50 million, up 10% to 12% from 1994. She wouldn't disclose U.S. promotion, but said Revitalizing's share of total marketing dollars will shift from roughly a 50% split with classic Maybelline to 33.8% of the budget in 1995.

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