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Toronto's changed. Peter Ustinov once described it as "New York run by the Swiss." Yes, you will find clean, relatively crime-free streets and nice, polite people. But thanks to a massive multicultural infusion, "Toronto the Good" ain't that bad.

Nightlife? The Horseshoe Tavern (416-598-4753) is a legendary Queen Street West establishment. Try the Top o' The Senator (364-7515) for jazz. Ted's Collision (533-2430) ranges from alt country punk to live poetry readings. Hit the Bamboo (593-5771) for world music. After hours, wander into the Swatow Chinese Restaurant (977-0601) on Spadina Avenue. Make sure you sit at the big table with the other dregs and ask for the "cold tea," or go to the Matador (533-9311) which inspired Leonard Cohen's Closing Time.

Food? I love my old-fashioned egg-and-sausage breakfast at the Vienna Home Bakery (703-7278) on Queen Street West. Bar Italia (535-3621) and surrounding Little Italy is cool. Canoe (364-0054) offers spectacular views and even better meals (you're expensing this one, right?).

Odd? Bata Shoe Museum (979-7799) runs a 4,500 year gamut from Nefertiti to Elton John. Honest Ed's (537-1574) -- "Don't Just Stand There! Buy Something!" -- is a brazen, block-long discount store. Visit film historian Reg Hartt's house (777-2022) for ultraviolent Warner Brother cartoons followed by an idiosyncratic lecture.

Art? Paris may have the Louvre but we have the Hockey Hall of Fame (360-7765). The Ydessa Hendeles Gallery (413-9400), housed in an old uniform factory, has a stunning collection of contemporary photography.

Nature? Bike through our unique interconnecting ravine system. Take a 15-minute ferry across to Toronto Island. Hanlan's Point (nude bathing optional) is the site of Babe Ruth's very first professional home run.

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