On your first night in town, hit the Martinez Bar. It's a bit of an advertising U.N. -- sessions begin at 10 p.m. and end whenever. For those with a gentler constitution who wish to start the following day quietly nursing a coffee, the multitude of cafes on the Croisette supply all the stopping-off points you need on the way to the Palais. You'll also be able to spend a couple of hours experiencing why you're there in the first place.
Lunch: The beach restaurant at the Carlton seems to hold the attention of many -- could be the tantalizing buffet they put out every day, or it could be the person you might sit next to. Out of town: La Colombe d'Or in St. Paul de Vence. Take a dip in the midnight blue swimming pool. Frighteningly expensive: The terrace at the Hotel Du Cap, one of the most stunning locations on Earth to have lunch. But don't be stunned to find out that credit cards are not accepted.
Aperitif: the Carlton Terrace. Not the place to go if you want to avoid Americans. Out of town: A gentle drive into the hills behind the town can take you to the cuisine Provencal and the garden of Le Moulin de Mougins. Frighteningly expensive: Tetou, a family-run beachside restaurant about 15 minutes outside of town, famous for their bouillabaisse. Again, only cash, please. Very smart, these French.