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LONDON-If beauty is in the eye of the beholder, women's magazine publishers find the burgeoning market for separate health and beauty titles ravishing.

Elle, Marie Claire and Cosmopolitan are spinning off glossy new magazines to entice new advertisers and cannily persuade existing clients to buy ad pages twice. Marie Claire Health and Beauty, Zest from Cosmo and Elle TopModel all offer marketers less ad clutter, lower ad rates and tightly targeted readerships avid for health and beauty products.

"Advertisers are demanding more space," said Helena Hudson, Ogilvy & Mather senior print buyer. "Major fragrance and beauty companies are falling over themselves to get into Marie Claire and Cosmopolitan."

Hearst Corp.'s U.K. subsidiary National Magazine Co. introduced Cosmo spinoff Zest this month with a 300,000 print run. Zest will be quarterly for its first year. Under the strapline "Health and beauty for a new generation," Zest's cover promises $50,000 in beauty giveaways and articles on steroids, eating disorders and the future of cosmetic surgery.

Simon Kippin, publishing director for both Zest and Cosmo's U.K. edition, believes Zest could expand into other markets.

Mr. Kippin has already sold pages in Zest to Procter & Gamble, Estee Lauder, Lancome, Nike, Elizabeth Arden and supermarket chains Tesco and Sainsbury.

"The response from advertisers has been fantastic," he said. Many advertising in Zest are also in Cosmo, he said.

Marie Claire has also chosen the U.K. for its first health and beauty foray, with the first issues of Marie Claire Health and Beauty, published this year in April and October, with quarterly frequency starting in 1995. If Health and Beauty is a hit, parent company Socite Marie Claire Album may introduce it elsewhere.

Advertisers running regular ads in Marie Claire have bought space in Health and Beauty to support different brands, according to Justine Southall, advertising director for both publications.

They are also attracted by the ad rates-$6,280 for a page in a 100,000 circulation issue of Health and Beauty, compared to $11,697 for a page in Marie Claire, with its circulation of 398,000.

Besides lower ad rates at $6,552 a page, Cosmo's Zest offers a less cluttered environment with an editorial/advertising ratio of 75:25, compared with 50:50 at Cosmo.

Ms. Southall points to the wealth of consumers eager to buy the latest in new skin care products.

Marie Claire Health and Beauty carries 15 pages of ads just for anti-ageing face creams.

Hachette Filipacchi Presse is gambling on the small elite band of supermodels to lure today's young women to Elle TopModel, a quarterly to launch in early 1995 after two test issues. this year.

Advertising Director Phane Denis du Peage said the second issue, published in 23 countries and 11 languages with the same ads and editorial, sold more than 1.2 million copies worldwide, ranking as a true "international phenomenon." Elle TopModel will limit ad space to 10 advertisers per issue, Mr. du Peage said.

At $47,170 a page, ads in the second issue included Estee Lauder's Fruition Triple Reactivating Complex, Lancome's Tresor perfume and Clarins' skincare products.

Elle TopModel, Marie Claire Health and Beauty and Zest won't have the health and beauty market to themselves. Conde Nast is said to be bringing Allure to the U.K. from the U.S.

And U.K. drugstore chain Boots, a frequent advertiser in women's magazines, plans to start its own quarterly next February targeting its core shoppers-women between 25 and 40.

The still unnamed publication will print 250,000 copies to sell for $2.50 through 500 Boots stores.

Boots plans to sell some of the 30 ad pages per issue to other beauty marketers at $6,903 per page.

Written By Laurel Wentz with contributions from Judith Sullivan and Juliana Koranteng.

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