When Lululemon was looking to promote its Align leggings this spring, the brand took a new marketing direction—it hosted a “Dupe Swap” in Los Angeles, where consumers could bring in knockoff leggings in exchange for a free pair of the near-$100 Align pants. Meant to attract new customers while tapping into so-called “dupe culture,” in which influencers promote cheaper alternatives to existing higher-end brands on social media, the event soared past expectations. Half of the thousands of attendees were new customers, and more than half were under the age of 30.

“I have been blown away by the response,” said Nikki Neuburger, Lululemon’s chief brand officer. “We hit our goals and metrics in terms of this being a way to get ourselves in front of some new people and create a lot of buzz and noise … it had an impact and halo above and beyond.”

Dupes are nothing new—knockoffs, counterfeits and cheaper versions of existing products have been around for decades. However, the strategies brands are deploying to tackle the ever-present trend are changing. Some, like Lululemon, are embracing it as a culturally relevant way to attract new and younger loyalists rather than spending on traditional customer acquisition marketing costs. Others are using the trend’s popularity to tout their own value as brands and distance their products from shoddy alternatives.

As with most of marketing’s modern trends, Gen Z is the driving force behind the rise, and acceptability, of dupes. Technological innovations from recent years, such as image search on Amazon, have made it easier than ever for customers to spot a product and search out less expensive lookalikes. Influencers are also popularizing the trend on TikTok and other social media sites—the #dupe hashtag has 4.4 billion views on TikTok and 300,000 posts on Instagram.

Many younger consumers, eager to save in a challenging economy, are seeking out dupes as a way to look trendy without having to pay too much. It helps that it is socially acceptable, and even a point of pride, for thrifty shoppers to use knockoffs instead of authentic items.

“The embrace of dupes has become its own moral statement and become one that is widely accepted—that is the difference and that’s what brands are having to fight,” said Susan Scafidi, a Fordham Law School professor and founder of the school’s Fashion Law Institute. Gen Z and social media are prime instigators, she said. “If you need to show up on Instagram every day looking different and styling yourself differently, then you need a constant new flow of tools to do that and that is fast fashion and that ultimately means dupes.”

Peak dupe

Several brands are adding their own spin, hoping to cash in on the craze. Up-and-coming beverage brand Olipop has highlighted itself as a dupe alternative to Sprite, for example. Similarly, Whole Foods Market created TikTok videos showcasing its in-house brand, 365 by Whole Foods Market, as a dupe for brands such as Coca-Cola or Fruit Loops. Brianna Blanton, executive leader of product commercialization at the grocery store chain, wrote in an email that dupes are a way to highlight the company’s products, which don’t have “hydrogenated fats, high-fructose corn syrup or sweeteners like aspartame, sucralose and saccharin.” She added, “We’re incredibly proud of our ‘dupes’ and hope the trend helps more customers discover these items on our shelves.”

Lululemon's exchange activation was held at the beginning of May and the Canadian activewear brand is still enjoying the long tail of earned media. In addition to the benefits of gaining new customers, Neuburger said that the Lululemon store adjacent to the event saw increased traffic and sales for the entire two-day activation. The clothier recycled the traded-in dupes with a textile recycling company.

While Lululemon doesn’t plan to replicate the exact same swap, it is considering other ideas inspired by dupes as it seeks to further connections with Gen Z—particularly for its men’s products.

“Dupe culture in my belief actually helps our brand,” said Neuburger. “You have millions of people on TikTok saying Lululemon over and over again … it’s reinforcing our premium and iconic position.”

Marketing experts agree that the social media mentions can help existing brands grow in awareness. Jacqueline Babb, a senior lecturer at Northwestern University’s Medill School of Journalism, Media and IMC, said that the relatively inexpensive dupe swap is another way for Lululemon to get in front of new consumers that isn't direct paid advertising.

“If they can convert some of those customers that brought in the dupe with a fraction of the cost, that is an incredibly efficient use of marketing dollars,” she said, adding that other brands should look to Lululemon’s initiative as a lesson. “For brands, if you trust your brand equity, then there’s a lot of reason to try to convert customers that are buying dupes.”

However, Gen Z is a notoriously fickle bunch, and the tide may already be turning on dupes as more brands hop on the bandwagon. Some consumers have already complained about dupes being played out and overused.

“The hype cycle around dupe culture is almost coming full circle now,” said Skyler Hubler, senior cultural strategist at Backslash, the cultural intelligence unit at TBWA.

Gen Z—‘full of contradictions’

While the rise of dupes, which often promotes waste and disposable fashion, seems contrary to the values that Gen Z has been known to care about—the group’s passion for sustainability and authenticity have been well-reported—experts say that economic factors take precedence. Knockoffs are cheaper for a cohort that does not have an unlimited supply of funds during tough economic times. A recent survey from ICSC found that 53% of Gen Z want to support mental health and 47% want to support sustainability, but when making purchases, the majority of the group cited price as the most important factor.

More: Gen Z clothing shoppers’ priorities include sustainability

“We know from the data that Gen Z is full of contradictions,” said Hubler, noting that the group claims to care about sustainability but is also one of the biggest buyers of fast fashion. “They’re going to be trend-sensitive and price-sensitive and keeping up with the trends will outweigh their desire to save the planet despite their caring about climate change.”

But while dupes still maintain their popularity, brands are challenged to protect their equity. The rise in dupe culture has trademark implications for marketers, according to experts. Though many dupes are simply lookalike products, some are actually counterfeit, which could infringe on a brand’s trademark rights. Yet the problem overall is a general disregard for originals, according to Scafidi, who notes that trademark law has been under a lot of pressure lately with the rise of knockoffs and replica fashions.

“Now on social media, the problem of social acceptance of copies has been magnified,” she said, adding that influencers and TikTok stars often promote lookalikes including dupes and counterfeits. “Sometimes they’re just lookalike products that are not infringing on the trademarks, but by making that connection, they’re really harming the owners who are trying to protect their trademark and their work.”

Reinforce brand attributes

To avoid the pitfalls, experts recommend marketers reinforce their product and brand attributes to consumers. This could include hosting an activation like Lululemon’s, or it could mean introducing changes to make it harder to copy a company’s products. For example, Scafidi suggests implementing a “buy now, wear now” approach for Fashion Week runway shows. Typically, designs are showcased months before they are available for purchase, making styles easier to knock off before they even hit store shelves. In addition, brands can create designs with certain technical elements or techniques that are harder to copy.

Similarly, brands should be showcasing why their products are worth their cost through transparent pricing, which includes how much is spent on fair labor and sustainable materials, for example, or with the incorporation of authenticity trackers that can help for resale purposes, said Hubler. Finally, part of the appeal of dupes comes from the delight of the score, or finding something good enough for less money. If a brand has its own resale program, that feeling could be replicated as consumers find second-hand goods.

“For a lot of buyers, the process of hunting down the perfect dupe is part of the thrill,” said Hubler, adding that “resale programs and second-hand collection could be part of the same hunt.”

For Away, the direct-to-consumer luggage brand, adding value for existing customers and potential customers is a key objective, surpassing any investment in the dupes trend right now, according to Carla Dunham, chief marketing officer. She said the New York-based company has a competitive advantage with its functional luggage that can’t be replicated.

“We’ve been a company committed to rigorous, thoughtful design that cannot be duped,” said Dunham, who joined Away earlier this year. “[The dupes trend] puts a lot of onus on all brands to have something compelling to say.”